Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

本書是一部系統性探討海洋與沿岸波浪的專業著作，兼顧物理意義與統計分析，適合研究所學生、研究人員與工程實務者閱讀。內容從觀測技術談起，介紹現地量測與遙測方法，並逐步建立描述波浪的參數與統計架構。書中詳述線性波理論在外海與近岸水域的應用，說明波浪在不同水深與地形條件下的行為差異，並深入介紹 SWAN 波浪模式，協助讀者理解現代數值模擬在工程與研究中的角色。全書結構嚴謹、插圖清楚，是理解風生波浪與海岸波動不可或缺的參考書。

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.