商品簡介
This book is a more or less chronological list of short stories that depict the life of a fun loving surfer boy who grew up in southern California and caught the wanderlust bug as a teenager, made forays to Hawaii, San Diego county, Santa Cruz, and then back to Hawaii for keeps. You might find it sort of like a Jack Kerouac, stream of consciousness type of read. Sometimes being in the right place at the right time has its advantages and rewards; other times in the wrong place at the wrong time, its embarrassments. There's both here in these pages. It's intoxicating being a surfer. You get to experience adventure, greatness, defeat, happiness, injury, danger, challenges, travel, fame, rejection; all the same things you do in almost any endeavor! Enjoy.
