夏威夷選手 Carissa Moore 在衝浪首度成為奧運正式項目時奪下史上第一面女子金牌，也為家鄉帶回難忘的榮耀。本書由她分享自己的成長與衝浪歷程，並邀集多位夏威夷傳奇衝浪選手與文化工作者，從不同世代的經驗談起，呈現「來自夏威夷的衝浪者」所代表的文化與情感。全書以精彩攝影記錄島嶼景觀、著名浪點與衝浪人物，也介紹 paddle out、衝浪板製作、shaka 手勢等傳統。John John Florence、Kelia Moniz、Kai Lenny、Laird Hamilton 等人亦分享自身故事，從競技、生活到家族傳承，呈現衝浪發源地深厚而多元的文化。Hawaiian native Carissa Moore brought joy and pride to the islands when she won the first-ever, gold medal in surfing's Olympic debut. Here she shares her story and her personal perspective, alongside contributions from many of her fellow Hawaiian surf legends, on what it means to be a surfer from Hawaii.This long-awaited book celebrates Hawaii's rich surf history and culture, featuring stunning photography capturing the magnificent beauty of the islands, Hawaii's most famous surf breaks, and legendary surf icons. It showcases Hawaiian surfing traditions such as paddle outs, surfboard shaping, the shaka symbol, and all of the things that have made the origins of surfing in Hawaii uniquely beautiful.Moore invit
