商品簡介
No one has done more to expand the world of surfing than Jack O Neill. In the middle of the twentieth century, surfing was overwhelmingly confined to warm-water latitudes and summer seasons. By the end of the century, surfers were riding waves in some of the most remote coldwater corners of the world places like Scotland, Tasmania, and Canada in the dead of winter. Jack O Neill made it all possible with his invention of the wet suit. This is his story, lushly illustrated with archival photos and classic surfing images and brought vividly to life through quotes from some of the most famous surfers of the past 50 years.
作者簡介
Drew Kampion is a former editor of several surf magazines and author of many books, including Stoked! A History of Surf Culture. He lives on an island in Washington.
