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前言: 時尚對話 2012,BIFT-ITAA 國際聯合研討會
今春3月,北京國際時裝周期間，“時尚對話2012”國際聯合研討會在北京服裝學院圓滿舉行。此次研討會由北京服裝學院和國際紡織與服裝協會共同組織，由中國服裝協會、中國服裝設計師協會、中國紡織出版社等機構協辦。
會議期間，來自中國、美國、加拿大等9個國家和地區的128位作者就消費者行為、設計與美學、歷史文化、采購及營銷、視覺營銷、教育學、社會心理學、持續性與社會責任、紡織與服裝行業、紡織與服裝科學及技術設計等議題展開研討與陳述，共發表論文和作品近200篇（幅）。同時，時裝周期間的企業、行業參觀及時裝秀場觀摩，為與會者提供了了解中國文化與現代服裝產業的機會，促進了東西方服飾文化與技術的交流。
此次會議是我校與國際紡織與服裝協會的首次合作，很榮幸研討會在我校舉行。北京服裝學院是全國唯一以服裝命名的高等學校，一直秉承“求是創新、學以致用”的辦學理念，堅持“藝工融合”的特色辦學。學校連續三年獲得國家科技進步二等獎；承擔了2008年奧運會殘奧會和國慶60周年系列服飾設計、神七、神九艙內服飾設計等重大設計任務。
ITAA作為重要的紡織服裝專業組織，強調“發現、傳播、應用和引領”等核心價值觀。很高興此次國際聯合研討會為新老朋友搭建了相聚的平臺、學術交流的平臺、東西方文化碰撞的平臺。
從 2011年 10月到今秋，整整 2年的時間，“時尚對話 2012” BIFT-ITAA國際聯合研討會從策劃、實施、舉行、到此次論文集與作品集的出版，終于可以畫上完美句號。在此，我們真誠地感謝 Mary Littrell、俞紅、J.R. Campbell和Kim K. P. Johnson四位教授在促成和完成此次研討會期間所付出的努力；誠摯地感謝Mary Littrell、J.R. Campbell在論文集、作品集編輯環節付出的辛勤；衷心地感謝北服團隊在整個項目實施過程中付出的辛苦。
希望北京作為中國政治、文化、經濟中心，以源遠流長的文化、海納百川的胸懷、國際大都市的魅力，給您留下美好的記憶。期待再次的合作與相聚！
劉元風，教授
BIFT-ITAA 2012組織委員會主席
北京服裝學院院長
中國 北京
前言: 時尚對話 2012，BIFT-ITAA 國際聯合研討會
從研討會的組織舉辦至本套書籍的最終出版是一段雖漫長艱巨卻又令人振奮的過程。我們最初的想法是組織一次由國際紡織與服裝協會（ ITAA）的成員及北京服裝學院（ BIFT）共同參與的研討會議，但隨著全球學者逐漸聚集到本次研討會中，我們愈發清晰地意識到通過出版論文集與作品集來紀念此次盛會的重要性。由此，催生了本套書籍的最終出版：包括研討會的論文全文及設計作品。
ITAA作為首要的紡織品和服裝的專業組織，我們的核心價值觀是“發現、傳播、應用和引領”。北服是中國頂級的時裝學校，提供一流的時尚技術和商務高等教育。2012年 3月，北京服裝學院和國際紡織與服裝協會在北京共同組織了“時尚對話2012”國際聯合研討會。作為首都，北京是中國政治、文化和經濟的中心，具有悠久的歷史和獨特的文化品位。北京之所以著名，不僅僅因為其擁有華麗的宮殿、寺廟和牌坊，更因這座城市印證了百年藝術傳統和當代設計的交融。會議期間，與會者參與了一系列文化活動，包括參觀故宮、鳥巢、茶道和長城，同時，參觀了中國著名內衣企業—愛慕內衣有限公司。恰逢 2012梅賽德斯 -奔馳中國時裝周，與會者觀摩了三場時裝秀，包括一場 BIFT-ITAA設計作品評審秀、一場學生作品秀、一場獨立設計師作品秀和一場開幕酒會。
此次研討會的目的是提供紡織服裝領域學術與設計方面的交流。設計展覽體現了本次研討會的諸多特色，該環節不僅展現了設計師杰出的設計作品，同時為設計師搭建了互動交流平臺，通過展覽和口頭發表等形式表達其設計目的、設計內容和設計領悟。此外，會議就服裝產業的可持續性、設計、營銷、消費者行為、歷史和社會性等廣泛主題展開討論，為學者提供了分享作品和交流心得的機會。此次會議共發表學術作品近200篇（幅），包括100余篇口頭發表的論文、60余幅設計作品及數篇海報形式發表的研究論文。與會者交流與分享研究成果、教學體驗和創新設計的熱情最終推動了本套書籍的出版。在此，我們誠摯地感謝 Mary Littrell、J.R. Campbell、 Kim Johnson、俞紅等教授和北服團隊為此次會議順利召開付出的長期努力和無私奉獻。衷心地感謝中國紡織出版社為此系列書籍出版給予的重要支持。
在此，謹代表國際紡織與服裝協會和北京服裝學院預祝各位閱讀論文集與作品集愉快、開卷有益。
亞娜·霍利，博士
顧問
ITAA
目次
Part1Looking to the PastPaper 1 - THE VALUE OF BOND-PEARL LINE IN THE EXCHANGE ON THE SILK ROADWang Yi, Xia MengyingPaper 2 - ROLE-REFURBISHMENT OF CLASSIC CARTOON ""THREE MONKS""Li Hongmei, Bo FuliPaper 3 - PANTS IN GENRE PAINTINGS OF THE SONG DYNASTYTan RongPaper 4 - SHAPE AND FUNCTION OF THE MANCHU SHORTAGE-FLY-ROBEWang Shuhui, Zhao MingPaper 5 - NATIONAL INTEGRATION IN KHITAN COSTUMES FROM MURALS IN LIAO DYNASTY TOMBSZhou YingPaper 6 - FRAME AND DIVERSIFICATION IN SHIDONG MIAO EMBROIDERY DESIGNSHo ZhaohuaPaper 7 - TRADITIONAL COSTUME FUNCTIONS, CUSTOMS TABOOS, AND WEARING HABITS OF MIAONATIONALITY AND DONG NATIONALITY WOMEN IN SOUTHEASTERN GUIZHOUZhou MengPaper 8 -MARY SEACOLE: A FEMALE WORLD TRAVELER AND APPEARANCE MANAGER IN THE 1800sEulanda A． SandersPaper 9 - LANGUISHING CRAFTS OF INDIAVandana BhandariPart2Analyzing TextilesPaper 10 - FABRIC PERFORMANCE OF DIFFERENT ABSORPTION AND QUICK-DRYING FIBERSChen Lihua, Zheng Rong, Wei LinnaPaper 11 - OPTIMIZAITON OF BCF JET DESIGN BASED ON TRIZ THEORYYang Enyuan, Dong YuchuanPaper 12 - CONTRAST ANALYSIS OF COLOR FASTNESS ASSESSMENT RESULTS BY EYEBALLING ANDINSTRUMENTAL ASSESSMENTZhou Huanqing, Chen LihuaPaper 13 - TESTING OF SEWING PENETRATION FORCELi Ying,Wang Yueping,Cao YuansenPaper 14- EXTRACTION OF NATURAL DYES FROM THE FRESH RIND OF MANGOSTEEN (GARCINIAMANGOSTANA L．)Basitah Taif, Noorsaadah Abdul RahmanPaper 15 - EXPLORING MANUAL DYEING TECHNIQUES WITH PLANT DYES AND PATTERN DESIGNWang Yueping, Zhang Yajun, Li Ying, Wang Haijian, Zhang ZhengxuePaper 16 - ANALYSIS OF HISTORICAL GOLD MOUNTING TEXTILE: ""LIGHT BROWN BROCADE WITH COILEDDRAGON AND FLORAL GOLDEN PATTERN"" AS EXAMPLEChang YichingPart3Designing ApparelPaper 17 -THE LANGUAGE OF PATTERN ALTERATION:CLOTHING MODELING AND VISUAL EXPRESSIONLi Jingjing, Liu RuipuPaper 18 -ANALYSIS OF TWO KINDS OF BASIC PATTERN DESIGN METHODS FOR MEN'S COATSYin FangLi , Liu RuiPuPaper 19 - COMPARISON AND ANALYSIS ON GARMENT PROTOTYPESMu LinPaper 20 - INTEGRAL GARMENTS WITH DIFFERENT KNITTED STRUCTURES: SIZE, SHAPE, ANDIMPLICATIONS FOR FITTraci A．M． Lamar, Yanxue MaPaper 21 -APPLICATION OF TRADITIONAL CHINESE ELEMENTS INTO FASHION DESIGN-BASED ONDUNHUANG ARTSYou Jia, Zhang HuiqinPaper 22 - APPLICATION OF CHINESE CHARACTER PATTERNS IN COSTUMES TO MODERN CHINESESTYLECLOTHING DESIGNZhang Ru , Liang JingjingPaper 23 -INCORPORATION OF CULTURAL AND CREATIVE ELEMENTS INTO MODERN PRODUCT DESIGN:CASE STUDY OF FASHION SOUVENIR DESIGN FROM MUSEUMS IN LONDONShen Fei, Li DongPart4Integrating Form and FunctionPaper 24 - IMPROVEMENT OF HUMAN COMFORT BY USING FUNCTIONAL TEXTILES FOR THE LOW CUTBACK VESTChang Yiching, Lee Kueichi, Miao Meifen, Yu HueijenPaper 25 - HIGH PERFORMANCE VOLLEYBALL SPORTSWEAR DESIGNWang Yongjin, Yuan Chutian, Diao Jie, Liu Li, Chen XinJian, Cheng ChuMoPaper 26 - ODOUR EVALUATION ON ANTIMICROBIAL TREATED FABRICS:AN ASSESSMENT OF TESTMETHODYin Xu, Rachel McQueen, Wendy WismerPaper 27 - WORKWEAR FOR PROTECTION FROM STEAM AND HOT WATER: THE DESIGN PROCESS ANDMOCK-UP DEVELOPMENTSihong Yu, Megan Strickfaden, Elizabeth CrownPaper 28 - PRIMARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL STUDENTs UNIFORM SYSTEM INNOVATION IN BEIJINGGu Yuanyuan, Jiang Lei, Wang Yongjin, Pan Bo, Wang QiPaper 29 - COMPARATIVE STUDY OF RAILWAY UNIFORMSYang Jun, Zhang HaoPaper 30 - COMPARATIVE STUDY OF DOMESTIC AND OVERSEAS STANDARDS ON HEARING PROTECTORSQu Tingting, Zhang Hao, Zhou Hong, Li Jian, Guo Jing, Guo XinmeiPaper 31 - COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF DOMESTIC AND OVERSEAS STANDARDS ON PROTECTIVECLOTHING AGAINST RADIOACTIVE CONTAMINATIONWu Wen, Zheng Rong, Guo Jing, Li Jian, Zhou Hong, Guo XinmeiPaper 32 - COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF DOMESTIC AND OVERSEAS STANDARDS ON CHEMICALPROTECTIVE CLOTHINGZhou Yanfen, Zheng Rong, Li Jian, Guo Jing, Zhou Hong, Guo XinmeiPart5Conducting BusinessPaper 33 - THE SOFT POWER OF FASHION: THE INFLUENCE OF FASHION SHOWS IN CHINA AFTERChung Chiayu, Tsai Sulee, Ho ZhaohuaPaper 34 - BRIEF ANALYSIS OF THREE DIMENSIONS OF UNDERWEAR INNOVATION PATTERNSShi Erle, Liu YuanfengPaper 35 - EXAMINING THE AFFECTS OF RETAIL REVITALIZATION EFFORTS ON RURAL RESIDENTS'PERCEIVED SATISFACTIONRosita Mohd． Tajuddin, Linda S． NiehmPaper 36 - CHINESE MASS CONSUMERS' PERCEPTION OF THE INTERNATIONAL LUXURY FAHSIONWINDOW DISPLAYGuo Wei, Wang ZiyiPaper 37 - ORGANIZATION CHARACTERISTICS OF AFRO-BARBADIAN WOMEN MICRO-ENTREPRENEURSAmanda J． Muhammad, Jana HawleyPaper 38 - PREDICTING INTENTIONS TO PURCHASE SUSTAINABLE APPAREL IN CHINAHan YanPaper 39 - SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION WITHIN THE U．S． APPAREL ANDAUXILIARY INDUSTRIES: AN EXPLORATION OF STAKEHOLDER PERSPECTIVESJennifer Paff Ogle, Karen H． Hyllegard, Mary A． Littrell, Marianne Bickle, Nancy A． RuddPart6Teaching Future ProfessionalsPaper 40 - NYC STUDY TOUR: NEW YORK CITY AS A CLASSROOM WHILE BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEENDESIGN SCHOOLS AND DESIGN HOUSESYoung KimPaper 41 - EXPERIMENTAL FASHION DESIGN: PRACTICAL AND PEDAGOGICAL CONSIDERATIONS FORTHE ADOPTION OF AN EXPERIMENTATION-DRIVEN FASHION DESIGN STUDIO COURSEHenry Navarro DelgadoPaper 42 - DEVELOPMENT AND INTEGRATION OF SURFACE DESIGN COURSES INTO AN APPAREL DESIGNCURRICULUMSusan M． StrawnPaper 43 - DIGITAL FASHION DESIGN: INNOVATIVE DESIGN BY USING DIGITAL TECHNIQUESHuang ZongwenPaper 44 - CONSTRUCTION AND PRACTICE OF A BILINGUAL COURSE IN FASHION DESIGNLi HongmeiPaper 45 - LAYERED LEARNING AS A NEW APPROACH TO ENHANCE THE BENEFITS OF ACTION LEARNINGDonna Reamy, Kristin Caskey, Rose J． Regni, Deidra ArringtonPaper 46 - CULTIVATING GLOBAL ENTREPRENEURS: AN EVOLVING INTERNATIONAL EDUCATION PROGRAMIN TEXTILES, APPAREL AND MERCHANDISINGChuanlan Liu, Ye-Sho Chen, Lisa Barona McRobertsPaper 47 - FROM MARSH TO MARKET: A CASE STUDY OF CREATIVE STRATEGY FOR STREAMLININGFUNDING, RESEARCH, AND TEACHING: PROMOTING GRADE 3 ALLIGATOR SKINSLisa Barona McRoberts, Chuanlan LiuPaper 48 - IMPROVING THE COMPETITIVENESS OF HIGHER EDUCATION FASHION STUDENTS FOREMPLOYMENTShi Limin, Shi Jimin, Meng QingyaoPaper 49 - WUHAN TEXTILE UNIVERSITY'S PRACTICES TO CULTIVATE TALENT OF FASHION STUDENTSTao Hui．
書摘/試閱
ABSTRACT
The high quality embroidery created by Shidong Miao women constitutes a unique means of cultural reproduction of thepast and the present as it shapes Shidong Miao identity. By using a basic frame of embroideries on their upper garments,Shidong Miao present a united appearance as a group. At the same time, the details of the composition of embroidery illustrateindividual creativity. Examination of the design repertoires of Shidong Miao women as cataloged in their bend hmub revealstwo outstanding features; one is the stability of styles used to create images on Shidong Miao clothing, the other is the diversityof designs incorporated into the collective visual display. The purpose of: this paper is to take Shidong Miao embroidery as anexample to reveal the underlining structure of embroidery and to clarify how Shidong Miao women use basic elements to createa variety of compositions in their sleeve embroidery.
Key words: Shidong Miao, embroidery, frame design, cultural reproduction
1. INTRODUCTION
Shidong is a small river port township in the middle reaches of the Qingsui River in Taijiang County, Southeastern Guizhou Miaoand Dong Autonomous Prefecture (qian dongnan miaozu dongzu zizhizhou 秦東南苗族侗族自治州), Guizhou Province. As agroup, the Miao living in Shidong are known for their exquisitely crafted embroidery. In particular, it is visual details of the figuralassemblages that have been stitched on the surface of Miao clothing (and on jackets in particular) which distinguishes Miaodesigns and makes them unique. Jackets usually feature embroidery whose design comes from stencils that are bought in themarket, and are then combined with stitches and visual display from the woman's own bend hmub.
A Shidong Miao woman's bend hmub--literally "sample, model, pattern, style, type" of [embroidered] images--is a collectionof examples of all the patterns and motifs she has mastered and in turn teaches to her daughter/s. Patterns are collected ona single piece of cloth to make a kind of catalog of her repertoire. Girls begin to learn embroidery from six or seven years ofage and will eventually make their own bend hmub. A mother first teaches her daughter to be familiar with the warp and weft,and then shares the rules and grid structures of the embroidery. The most important lessons in this process involve developingthe skills of making stitches and acquiring knowledge of the elements of imagery. When Shidong Miao girls finish learning theelements of bend hmub designs, they will begin to make their own sleeve embroidery within the structures and frames they learnfrom their mothers.
